Thursday, December 30, 2010

Quick dash to Italy.





Just about 20 mins west of Monaco is the little town of Ventimiglia ~ first village in Italy. Another quick explore casing the town so we'd have our bearings when we go back tomorrow for market day.... namely FRESH PASTA, cheeses, sauces, veggies etc. Unfortunately, it's a dirty little place but it's rich in history just like all the little towns. Archaeological Ventimiglia (east side of the modern town) dates back to Roman times. We'll check out the Medieval part of town and the Roman theatre (with the first level of steps still intact) tomorrow. Fingers crossed for a non-rainy day.

Our fun find while in Ventimiglia was Bar Gelateria tucked away on a back street. Illo welcomed us, insisted we sit down and enjoy Italy's best hot chocolate (no, make that the world's best hot chocolate... he said), a bowl of his own homemade gelato (he picked our three flavours, and power-packed, creamless coffee for me. It was one swallow ~ half a demitasse cup! Illo is a hoot; we loved him. He subjected us to several youtube clips of him making his gelato. He considers himself a gelato artist due to all the flavour combinations he makes up.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

A five-day synopsis!








After a late evening Christmas feed at Le Maori Restaurant, we waddled around window shopping and admiring the lights and Christmas village at the Place Massena. We seem to end up there most evenings. Back at the apartment, we popped on Elf and scarfed some dessert that was just dying to be consumed! Another delight disappears to our hips!

Our apartment has amazing black-out blinds and once closed, we sleep in cave! That being said, we struggled out of hibernation at noon on Boxing Day!! Once we coiffed and make-uped (did I just create a new word?), we headed out to Old Nice in search of a life-sized creche with live animals. Honestly, we were underwhelmed... long walk; not much joy! Mr. Poulet Roti stopped us on the way by. We left him 10 euros poorer but toting two good lookin' rotisserie chickens for dinner! We keep aiming for early nights but we find ourselves outdoors with the rest of the Nice residents long after dark.

Our trip to Cannes on Tuesday was laced with way too much excitement for me and not the kind I enjoy. Bus drivers hitting pedestrians is not on my top ten list of favourite things to be a part of. Thankfully, the pedestrian wasn't too badly hurt (so she said). She bumped her head on the bus as she stepped off the curb where she shouldn't have. We were all quite shaken up ~ both from the driver suddenly hitting the brakes and then from the whole ordeal of the accident itself. A fabulous dinner at La Pizza perked up the Tan morale and we walked the long way back past the Chanel and Louis Vuitton stores.










Saturday, December 25, 2010

Joyeux Noel!






Following our French lesson, we jumped on a bus and headed to another Medieval Village called Saint Paul de Vence. It is a spectacular spot on the way to Cannes but inland. Another afternoon of rain.... we were drenched but happy. Saint Paul de Vence is much the same as Eze only with spectacular views of the region rather than the Mediterranean. Quaint shops and store fronts line wee narrow cobblestone walkways. Arches, gates, doors and windows... you will see from my photos that I'm somewhat obsessed with each unique view. There are 400 people that reside in the village.

Just outside of this tiny town is the International Baptist Church. We schlepped our bod's over there after a local pub meal hoping to catch the Christmas Eve service. We made up for four of the 40 attendees!! There wasn't a huge amount of energy but the after-service, cider and munchie meet-and-greet was very fun and then the pastor drove us back to Nice.

We seriously slept in this morning since we had a hunch Santa wouldn't show up. Madison was choked that he indeed did not show up and the cheesey 2ft fake Christmas tree was as empty as it had been when we headed to bed. The milk had dried on the saucer and the leftover croissants had been totally ignored. I guess Le Pere Noel had other places to be!

We headed out on an explore for a few wet hours this afternoon. Free hot chocolate in the square! My nose sleuthed out a roasted chestnut vendor and I was sucked in... just like drinking, I eat chestnuts alone! What's wrong with my family?

I must powder my nose, we're headed out for Christmas dinner in few minutes. Thanks to Bernice and Steve, we are going to the highly recommended La Maori ~ just a block or two away. Bon soiree et Bon appetit!


Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Quatre jours a Nice



Four days in Nice and I'm overwhelmed by our surroundings and it's people. The spirit of Nice is just alive. I have stepped into a different world. The Nicois live outside... they are social from morning until late at night. The streets are lined with cafes, bakeries and restaurants. People kiss both cheeks and then grab a table. Perhaps there are more people on the streets because of last-minute shopping and Christmas displays but with a population of a million, I'm guessing this is fairly standard.

Today, it poured and there were no less people crowding the streets. Armed with umbrellas, life continues.

We grabbed our raincoats and brollies and headed out with the locals. A one euro bus ride took us on a most scenic drive to Monte Carlo late this afternoon. I'm in awe of the Mediterranean coastline... words can hardly describe ...and 'beautiful' is an understatement. We are living the glory of Europe.

It was dark when we arrived in Monte Carlo but it was classically lit for the holidays. We ducked into the Prince's Tea Room for a couple of pots of special Noel brew by Mariage Freres and indulged in two of their house favourite desserts.... raspberry creme tart and raspberry macaron grande!

Bring on another adventure tomorrow.... I can't wait!

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Santa welcomes the Tans

After a several-hour delay out of Brussels, we arrived in Nice to be welcomed by Santa and his photographer. We all perched on Santa's lap and had our photos taken which turned out remarkably well. The best part for WT was IT WAS FREE! The photographer insisted on writing down a list of must-do restaurants with a list of must-try local eats. Socca was the first item on the list... which we tried yesterday. It is a chick-pea flour crepe snack. If it had not been over salted, it wouldn't be too bad for a savory option.

We dropped our bags at our new home for the next three weeks and hoofed it for just over a mile to a grocery store. Since we were walking, we tried not to get too many items just enough to tie us over until the morning.

Bon nuit, Nice!

Monday, December 20, 2010

Bruxelles Day 2

Feeling a bit better and certainly ready to volley off to Waterloo and learn a bit about the battle between Napoleon and the Duke of Wellington. The snow had blanketed the town and the battle ground so we didn't stay long.

A lovely, warm Belgian pub welcomed us and we lunched on poulet a la lyonnaise (chicken drum sticks braised in a white wine and slightly creamy broth) and carbonnade de boeuf flamande (melt-in-your-mouth beef braised in a dark, rich gravy). The meal was a very homey, comfort kind of food.... and best, it was typical, local fare!

From Waterloo, we blazed downtown Brussels and met up with some of Winston's friends. I was immediately attracted to them as they were packing a present for us.... 4lbs of Leonidas chocolates! Oh, the choices! Andrew and Deborah are really lovely people... they are responsible for all the Chinese that WT knows. Who knew he took Chinese lessons when he lived here?

We raced back to the Baines's home just in time to pick them up and head out to a Greek restaurant of their choice. Winston and I wrapped our lips around a fantastic moussaka while M&m's had a Vol au Vent with chicken that had been scorched.... so nasty. Thankfully they comp'ed us and we returned home to massive slices of Bouche de Noel.

Goodbye Baines..... Hello Nice!


Good morning Bruxelles!



We woke to a rainy, dreary day for an explore to Brugge. Winston, Michael and Madison headed out with Annalie while I opted to "couch it" with gallons of water by my side in an attempt to stave off the sensations of a urinary tract infection! UGH! Panic gripped my heart and 6 hours later I found myself perched on a green chair in a Belgian emergency waiting room at the hospital. Four hours and a prescription later, found us outside a pharmacy at 10PM in several inches of snow. Belgium under snow is particularly beautiful. The Dutch style architecture flocked with flakes is exquisite..... a unique "Currier and Ives" Kodak moment!

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Welcome to Bruxelles

Ninety minutes after departing Paris, we blazed into Brussels. Our friend Richard Baines and his daughter arrived to pick us up while we were sipping on cappuccino Bruxelles. I'm not sure what the Bruxelles addition is to a good cap' ... perhaps it's the complimentary Neuhaus chocolate perched on the saucer. Who knows.... both were entirely worth the cost.

Richard drove us to the beautiful Grand Place - the central square of Brussels. The square is surrounded by statuesque Gothic/Baroque guildhalls and graced by the Town Hall which stands 315 ft tall. The Grand Place was especially beautiful with its massive lighted Christmas tree in the centre. Madison and I loved the Galeries Saint Hubert-Sint Hubertusgalerijuen which is the world's oldest cover shopping mall built in 1847.

Our mission.....to find the best Belgian waffle from a street vendor and also street vendor frites with mayo!

Packing for Bruxelles

Crazy Pierre whisked us to the international train station like a car chase from one of Steve Martin's Pink Panther movies. We were quite sure all 3 million Paris residents had decided to come out while we were en route as well as the other 7 million in the greater Paris area! Navigating pedestrians, bicyclists, motor cycle drivers and mini vehicles around the city is quite an education and an art!


Palace of Versailles

After wrapping our lips around a few fresh croissants, (we are forever spoilt and will probably never eat an American attempt at a croissant again) and fruit for breakfast, we bundled up and schlepped out to the Metro. Two changes later, we arrived just around the corner from Versailles' exquisite architecture. We opted for the English tour guide to be sure we absorbed all the historical details of King Louis XIV life in the palace.

Champs Elysee was magical when we arrived back in Paris. It was dusk but bright with all the Christmas lights. Madison and I enjoyed a bit of window shopping at designer stores while Michael and Winston windowed shopped at the car dealerships.

A sprained ankle kept me from going out after dark to see the Eiffel Tower. Prayers and a few ice packs later, it was much improved. I seem to have forgotten how to walk on cobblestone walkways.




Monday, December 13, 2010




Montmartre and Eiffel Tower.

Additional scenery at Sacre Coeur! Nope, it is not Pierre, it's Winston!!

Sacre Coeur

The adventure begins......

Peeing in Paris

After a largely uneventful trip (minus the puking three rows ahead avec resulting aroma that lingered) we landed in Paris at noon. We were greeted by a cool chill and an Asian taxi driver. A short Cantonese exchange and Winston and Ken have bonded for life while instantly becoming our tour guide/chauffeur for the rest of the day. We had hardly left the terminal when we were inducted into some typical French scenery.....namely a man weeing on the sidewalk.... because he can!

First stop Sacre Coeur and Montmartre...... the kiddos got stuck shelling out 10 euros a piece for cut out silhouettes. Back off Pierre! We found a great place for croque monsieur and either we were just plain famished or it was truly amazing...still think it was the latter after all it should be given where we are! Next came Moulin Rouge, Bastille, Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, Champs Elysee, and Arc de Triomphe. Pictures to follow.

Nestled now in familiar Hilton Hotel territory, we opted for concierge munchies rather than taking a Winnie the Pooh "expotition" for dinner. Turning in for the night.... bring on sweet sleep! Bon nuit all!

Saturday, December 11, 2010

unGodly packing!

It's only almost midnight and nothing has crawled itself into a case yet... what's with that? Our Porter house guests are working their way to the front door. They are headed to Minneapolis via AMTRAK. Meanwhile, I feel like a train wreck!! Wish me happy packing and a great sleep in spite of a short night!